Introducing Peru

I’ve got to get better at updating this again…

But I do kind of have an excuse for part of the delay this time – I was out of town for one of the weeks. And the reason was a good one: my mom and dad came to visit! The interns had a week off from SALI, so my parents took advantage of the break and came to visit Peru. We had a fantastic time. I went to Lima to pick them up, and we spent about a week traveling in Southern Peru, going to Cusco, stopping through towns and Inca ruins in the Sacred Valley (Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Chincero), visiting Machu Picchu. I had the opportunity to see it several months ago when Haley and Katelyn visited, but it was just as magnificent again. I decided I’d be okay visiting this one of the new 7 Wonders of the World every 6 months or so… J

Looking over Cusco

Near the ruins at Pisac

Postcard picture at Macchu Pichu

Overlooking Ollantaytambo

Part of the fun, too, was taking public transportation, meeting lots of really nice people along the way, eating good Peruvian food, and just seeing them get to know Peru a little big (at least, as much as possible in the most touristy area of the country). After four days in Cusco and the Valley, we took a night bus to Arequipa and spent a couple of days there. The environment was a little more professional and “real life,” and our pace was a little more relaxed in this colonial, “white” city in southern Peru (called thus because of the ubiquitous use of white “sillar” volcanic stone). Some beautiful, 20,000-ft peaks (Misti and Chachani) hover above it, and we toured the city and some surrounding towns, enjoyed a couple of cool museums (including one where they have an Incan mummy they found frozen and excellently preserved on top of Misti), and watched the sun set at the beautiful Santa Catalina convent.

Early morning view of Chachani from Arequipa plaza

View toward the mountains

Santa Catalina convent

But I really loved getting back to Trujillo and introducing Mom and Dad to my place and my people. I showed them the Plaza de Armas, took them to SUSA Friday night, gave them a tour of the market and some of the vendor areas, and watched the sunset at the beach and at ceviche at Huanchacho. They also got to come to church, Sunday missionary lunch, and then the clinic on Monday. José, a friend/former student/baker we ran into Friday came over and made empanadas for several of us Saturday, and Karina and Flor hung out and conversed in Spanglish for awhile on Sunday evening. And of course they got to know the interns – especially Heidi, Linda, and Rachel. Overall, I was really just thankful that they got to meet so many people that are important to me and get a great taste of my life here and why I love it. It was wonderful and humbling to see how welcoming people were to them.

Sorry – I didn’t get any pictures of their time in Trujillo, but if I get any I’ll put a couple up. Back to normal and trying (with varying degrees of success) to catch up this week. It’s been good though. Hope yours has been great, too…

Ready, Set, Go!

Whew, it’s been quite a full few weeks! I apologize for being so far behind on updating. Here are a few highlights.

• Parrillada (cook-out) with SUSA, our jóvenes (young people) ministry

• Seeing Trujillo’s famous archaeological site, las Huacas del Sol y la Luna (pyramid/ tomb ruins from the Moche culture), with my friend, former student, and official tour guide Roxana.

• The opening of a new café at our church in Wichanzao – the clinic staff is quite excited about the tamales, papas rellenas, and cakes available right across the street.
• Trying to round up new Sunday School students and figure out how to teach the book of Judges to 6-9 year-olds. That’s pretty interesting. J
• Enjoying a few trips to Huanchaco, Trujill's beach town, with friends and (below) the clinic staff on this paseo (afternoon trip). Good bonding time and some fairly intense volleyball. :)
  

Celebrating the engagement of our friends Bruno and Briggith – they were thrilled to finally receive the go-ahead after being together since high school.

• Finally getting a better mattress to facilitate better care of Fermin’s bedsores. Fermin is the young man the clinic staff visits regularly who was paralyzed in an accident a year and a half ago. José Madrid, an elder at the church, also welded him a trapeze apparatus he can use to begin pulling himself up with his own strength. Now his sisters, who’ve been doing a great job caring for him, are headed back to the jungle so their kids can start the school year. Please pray that whatever family member(s) replace them would be just as capable of continuing his good care!
• Enjoying the presence of Dr. Mont Berry, an ENT doctor from Tupelo, MS, who saw over 60 patients at the clinic in 2 days!
• Spending all last week in campaigns with a medical group from a church in Memphis. I enjoyed translating (mostly for the dentists – I saw my first of many teeth extracted) and being with the fun group as we offered free medical care to people in low-income communities near Wichanzao and in other areas of the Esperanza district. Hopefully many were encouraged, served, and even informed about our clinic for future needs.

• Visiting a few patients in their homes this week. It’s nice to do that without as much of an agenda or timeline, as I was able to do with Noemí last Wednesday. And I spent all day yesterday with a Teodicia, an older lady in the neighborhood, and her daughter Lorena, at the hospital going through a series of tests and exams. Looks like it’s diverticulitis and, although very painful, thankfully treatable.

Sorry for the very brief run-through. It’s been a great couple of weeks, but definitely full. Maybe the comments and pictures will give you a taste. It’s cool to get to be a part of serving, building a variety of relationships, and just living here – even if it feels like life’s on steroids and running on fast-forward sometime. Thanks for your prayers and encouragement. Much love to you all.

P.S. Are the Bradford pears blooming yet?

Silence

So, a week ago today, my friend Karina was traveling with her aunt in Iquitos, a city in the Peruvian jungle (on the Amazon River, actually - the biggest city in the world inaccessible by road, if you're interested). But she received some tragic news. Last Monday, at about 5:30 pm, her grandfather passed away after being hit by a mototaxi that morning. A mototaxi is the Peruvian equivalent of a rickshaw - basically a motorcycle pulling a covered, 3-seated cart. He was brought from Casa Grande, the town where he lived, into Trujillo (abou 45 minutes-1 hour away), but they couldn't get him stabilized and he passed away before the could operate.

I can't imagine getting that phone call about your grandfather when you're hundreds of miles away and, because of flight/bus schedules and tickets, can't get there for 36 hours. On top of all this, Karina's grandparents essentially raised her, so this man was more like her father than her grandfather. She got to Trujillo Wednesday morning, with barely enough time to see her family and begin to process things before the velorio (viewing) and entierro (burial). And it was probably the most intense funeral I've ever been to. Several family members, including Karina, were distraught, and it was really difficult to see someone such a close friend in that much pain.

I just wanted to take it away, to share it, to know what to say or do to make it better. And I realized that I can't. I mean, I can be there for her - and don't get me wrong, I know what a huge gift that can be - but I can't heal her hurt. And that was a helpless, humbling place to be. But I think it helped me realize better that there is only One who can. And I'll be praying for and walking with her through that process.

Since last Wednesday, Karina has been better. She's been gracious to express sincere thanks for friendship and support, she hasn't let herself be swallowed by sorrow, she has allowed herself to talk about her grandfather - the kind of man he was, how he made her laugh, memories with him, confusion about the grieving process, openness about how she feels, honesty about questions as well as about her faith, hope, and the opportunity this tragedy could offer. I'm impressed. I can't imagine what it would be like to lose someone like that, and it will take her a long time to get through it. But I'm thankful for the person she is and for the chance to be here with her now.

Marinera

Currently in Trujillo, the Marinera Festival is going on. It started about a week ago, and it will continue this week with an international competition in the Plaza de Toros. The marinera is one of Peru's traditional dances (called the "National Dance of Peru") and, although it has different styles that hail from distinct cities and regions, this coastal dance is particularly characteristic of Trujillo. The two go together like Idaho and potatoes, D.C. and the White House, Texas and the two-step. When you say "Trujillo," you think "marinera."

All this week, they've had rehearsals (ensayos) open to the public at a nearby club. Not wanting to miss this typically Trujillan tradition, I decided to take advantage of the last night of rehearsals last night. It was great. Other observers packed the small stands surrounding a gym-like space, and couples filled the floor practicing their paces to the tunes of the Trujillo municipal band. In typical marinera, the man is dressed in "chalan" clothing, or a sort of formal, old-fashioned rancher costume, complete with a wide-brimmed straw hat. The women dance barefoot and wear traditional dress from their region, including a flowy skirt ideal for catching up and swishing dramatically. Both partners carry a white handkerchief, which they wave and twirl with a flourish. The participants for the rehearsal weren't dressed in their costumes, but they all had their handkerchiefs, and lots of the men and boys used their hats. The dance is bien coqueto (pretty flirty), as it's meant to reenact the different steps of a courtship ritual.

I love watching people dance, and you could tell that everyone on that floor - from the elderly to the teenagers to the 5-year-old couples striding sharply and flirtatiously - was enjoying what they were doing. That was the best part. A caller announced which type of marinera would be played, and then the floor was a sea of twirling handerchiefs, swirling skirts, spinning steps, sharp taps, and quick flicks of wrists and skips of feet. Enjoy these pictures and videos to give a little taste of Trujillo's marinera.

Demonstration by a young (I think Peruvian) couple from Spain.

This little guy was so cute. He will undoubtedly be on the dance floor in just a few years.

Generosity

Anywhere you go, you meet all kinds. But, within the last week, I have been struck several times by the open, spontaneous, natural generosity of Pervians. Last week at the clinic, after staying late to make a home visit to Fermin, Noemi (one of the nurses) suggested we get lunch together back in Trujillo. Having planned to eat at home, I hadn't brought enough money for lunch. Without a second thought, she immediately invited to treat me, and we enjoyed a delicious menu (cheap, fixed price lunch meal) downtown - much needed by 3 pm! And then she bought me an ice cream cone.

Saturday, at the central market, I was standing at a booth, undoubtedly calculating the cheapest possibility of getting my desired combination of produce. A humble, elderly gentleman, stooped over the ragged basket of lemons he was selling, asked to be excused as he tried to pass. Still focused on my vegetables, I moved aside to give him room on the narrow aisle but declined his offer to buy any lemons. However, the lady from whom I was buying immediately reached over and gave him some coins. I felt about the size of a grain of dirt.

Then, yesterday I was sitting next to a woman in the combi on the way back from Wichanzao. Her mother passed away last week, and she was heading back to her home in Jaen today. After talking most of the ride back to Trujillo, she thanked me for the work I am doing and, before I realized what what was happening, she had already paid my pasaje to the cobrador who takes everyone's bus fare. I can tell you that often, this work I'm doing feels much smaller than the voluntary acts of encouragement and kindness I see and have received, like that from this lady yesterday, given without reservation or a second thought.

Would I have done the same? And another thought came to me, as well: what am I saving my money for? Financial responsibility and frugality are important - I firmly believe that and, I think, often even hold a little too tightly to that principle. I think it's fine to look for a good deal on vegetables in the market, especially if I'm trying to make sure what I save is going to a good cause like the Wichanzao clinic or a food offering at church. But, even though these are good things, being too stubbornly fixed on giving only to "this" or "that" can impede the beauty and sincerity of spontaneous generosity. Lord, forgive me for focusing so much on the lower prices, even out of well-intended motivation, that I fail to notice and give your love freely to the elderly, those in need, or a traveler in a strange land.

This year, I want to live more like a Peruvian.

Returning

I wasn’t sure how being back in the States for Christmas would be, but it turned out to be really nice. It included a very enthusiastic welcoming committee at the airport, a day at Pickwick, seeing friends in Tupelo and Birmingham, and mostly lots of family in and around the Rice house for various birthday and Christmas gatherings. Although many days were pretty busy, it was really nice to see everyone and spend the holidays there. Plus, it was just about worth the ticket home to see Tupelo’s white Christmas.

The trek back south went smoothly (despite almost missing a flight due to a delay) until fog in Trujillo limited visibility enough to force our plane to wait on the runway in Chiclayo (a nearby city) for almost 3 hours while the flight crew tried to decide if we should try to land in Trujillo or go back to Lima. Much of this time was spent by listening to a large group – almost every passenger, in face – of very opinionated Peruvians contributing their two céntimos as to whether to stay in Chiclayo, try Trujillo, or return to Lima. Because apparently these decisions are made by committee. I could only laugh and go back to sleep. Eventually, we had an unsuccessful attempt at landing in Trujillo, went back to Lima, and eventually made it to Trujillo on a later flight. Upon finally landing, Trujillo never looked so beautiful.

Exhausted as we were (Heidi and Seth were on the same flight), I had to get out and move to cure myself of 30 hours of traveling. So I went for a run. And fell in an uncovered hole on the sidewalk accessing the water main. Long story short, I got a pretty good cut on my shin and spent part of my New Year’s Eve getting a few stitches in the office’s library (after a delicious supper at the Ueltscheys). Thankfully, I know some good doctors here, and Julton was kind enough to sew me up. And, although I was taking it easy, I still enjoyed ringing in 2011.

However, after having to say goodbye to family (which was more difficult than I'd expected) and traveling so long, that mishap was definitely not the first thing I wanted my first day back in Trujillo. Thankfully it really wasn’t bad, and I didn’t break anything, but I found myself asking “Why today?” I don’t know. But it did make me stop and think a little more. As much as I’d like to convince myself otherwise, I don’t have it all figured out just because I’ve already been here 5 months. I still can’t do this on my own strength. Nor should I. So my prayer for this new year is that I would not be concerned with doing a lot of important, significant things myself. While certainly taking seriously my work and responsibility to help here as much as possible, I hope my focus is more on Christ: sincerely growing in my relationship with Him, seeing Him be significant, and letting that be enough. Through that process, I trust that He will work in and through me. But I hope some arbitrary proof of my own work's importance is not my focus; rather, that I just seek Jesus. Because He can – and is – at work in bringing God’s kingdom.

So I guess I can deal with a few stitches for awhile. And it’s nice to enjoy a week that’s a little more relaxed without having to teach. It’s been helpful in getting settled again to reunite with the other interns, see some friends, and get back to work at the clinic. It's great to see everyone again. Below are a couple of pictures: the first, when Heidi and I took Linda (our new roommate) on an adventure to Las Delicias, a nearby beach where we saw some absolutely monstrous waves; the second, passing through the Plaza de Armas, still adorned with the trees and decorations from Christmas. Sometimes, you’ve just got to love Perú.

As I get a feel for things, I’ll try and synthesize some goals for my work at the clinic and the rest of my time here. So, if I get ambitious, be on the lookout for that soon. I wish you and yours a very blessed 2011. (Can you believe we’re there?!)

Surprises

There have been a few of those this week. Here's a recap.

Monday: After a long, kind of rough day, I was slightly grumpy and my dear friends were kind enough to be patient through this spell. Probably it helped that they knew they were giving me a surprise birthday party that night. A bunch of people came to the office after SALI and surprised me with bocaditos, singing Feliz Cumpleaños, and a delicious chocolate-cherry cake (including the Peruvian tradition of pushing it in your face as you lean down to take the celebratory first bite). It helps when your suprise birthday party is more than a week in advance of your actual birthday. But I wasn't going to be in Trujillo for my birthday, so they wanted to recognize it. I have some great friends.

Tuesday: We had an Amigo Secreto (Secret Santa) party among the staff at the clinic. It was a lot of fun - everyone standing up and giving clues/saying nice things about their secret friend before giving them their gift. It was Daniel's despedida, too, since he's not coming back after Christmas (per continuing dental school), so people said nice things about him too. Then I got a sweet card and a T-shirt from everyone for my birthday, which was a sweet surprise. Plus, Delvith, the lady who sells papas rellenas and tamales outside the clinic everyday, had made me a purse! Very sweet. It's red, which is fun, and quite appropriate for the season.

Wednesday: Instead of having class, I met my basic English class to go eat since it was the last day. Before heading out, I asked Flor exactly the time of my flight from Trujillo to Lima the next day. I thought it was around 10 pm. Turns out it was at 6:25. Good thing I asked.

Thursday: I went with don Jose, one of the clinic's patients, to the hospital to get the pathology results from a biopsy they took Monday at the Ear/Nose/Throat consultorio at the hospital. He'd had a pretty nasty tumor grow in his nose within the past couple of months. Found out today it is NOT cancerous. Hooray! Thank the Lord. Then I got back in time for the chocolatada at the clinic for the patients. Lots of kids enjoying hot chocolate and paneton, the Peruvian Christmas bread. Good times.

Now I'm in the Lima airport. Long night, but it's going ok so far. I took a nap, which was helpful. I'm hoping for some sleep on the plane. It's a little strange... I'm really looking forward to spending Christmas with my family in Tupelo, but I don't want to leave Trujillo. I guess that's a good thing, huh? It'll be a great couple of weeks. There's a lot that doesn't feel like Christmas when it's not cold, no fires, no Christmas tree (although it makes me happy when I see them). I'm looking forward to Christmas music, lights, family, friends, warm clothes, and good food. And heading back to Trujillo in 2 weeks.