Marinera

Currently in Trujillo, the Marinera Festival is going on. It started about a week ago, and it will continue this week with an international competition in the Plaza de Toros. The marinera is one of Peru's traditional dances (called the "National Dance of Peru") and, although it has different styles that hail from distinct cities and regions, this coastal dance is particularly characteristic of Trujillo. The two go together like Idaho and potatoes, D.C. and the White House, Texas and the two-step. When you say "Trujillo," you think "marinera."

All this week, they've had rehearsals (ensayos) open to the public at a nearby club. Not wanting to miss this typically Trujillan tradition, I decided to take advantage of the last night of rehearsals last night. It was great. Other observers packed the small stands surrounding a gym-like space, and couples filled the floor practicing their paces to the tunes of the Trujillo municipal band. In typical marinera, the man is dressed in "chalan" clothing, or a sort of formal, old-fashioned rancher costume, complete with a wide-brimmed straw hat. The women dance barefoot and wear traditional dress from their region, including a flowy skirt ideal for catching up and swishing dramatically. Both partners carry a white handkerchief, which they wave and twirl with a flourish. The participants for the rehearsal weren't dressed in their costumes, but they all had their handkerchiefs, and lots of the men and boys used their hats. The dance is bien coqueto (pretty flirty), as it's meant to reenact the different steps of a courtship ritual.

I love watching people dance, and you could tell that everyone on that floor - from the elderly to the teenagers to the 5-year-old couples striding sharply and flirtatiously - was enjoying what they were doing. That was the best part. A caller announced which type of marinera would be played, and then the floor was a sea of twirling handerchiefs, swirling skirts, spinning steps, sharp taps, and quick flicks of wrists and skips of feet. Enjoy these pictures and videos to give a little taste of Trujillo's marinera.

Demonstration by a young (I think Peruvian) couple from Spain.

This little guy was so cute. He will undoubtedly be on the dance floor in just a few years.

Generosity

Anywhere you go, you meet all kinds. But, within the last week, I have been struck several times by the open, spontaneous, natural generosity of Pervians. Last week at the clinic, after staying late to make a home visit to Fermin, Noemi (one of the nurses) suggested we get lunch together back in Trujillo. Having planned to eat at home, I hadn't brought enough money for lunch. Without a second thought, she immediately invited to treat me, and we enjoyed a delicious menu (cheap, fixed price lunch meal) downtown - much needed by 3 pm! And then she bought me an ice cream cone.

Saturday, at the central market, I was standing at a booth, undoubtedly calculating the cheapest possibility of getting my desired combination of produce. A humble, elderly gentleman, stooped over the ragged basket of lemons he was selling, asked to be excused as he tried to pass. Still focused on my vegetables, I moved aside to give him room on the narrow aisle but declined his offer to buy any lemons. However, the lady from whom I was buying immediately reached over and gave him some coins. I felt about the size of a grain of dirt.

Then, yesterday I was sitting next to a woman in the combi on the way back from Wichanzao. Her mother passed away last week, and she was heading back to her home in Jaen today. After talking most of the ride back to Trujillo, she thanked me for the work I am doing and, before I realized what what was happening, she had already paid my pasaje to the cobrador who takes everyone's bus fare. I can tell you that often, this work I'm doing feels much smaller than the voluntary acts of encouragement and kindness I see and have received, like that from this lady yesterday, given without reservation or a second thought.

Would I have done the same? And another thought came to me, as well: what am I saving my money for? Financial responsibility and frugality are important - I firmly believe that and, I think, often even hold a little too tightly to that principle. I think it's fine to look for a good deal on vegetables in the market, especially if I'm trying to make sure what I save is going to a good cause like the Wichanzao clinic or a food offering at church. But, even though these are good things, being too stubbornly fixed on giving only to "this" or "that" can impede the beauty and sincerity of spontaneous generosity. Lord, forgive me for focusing so much on the lower prices, even out of well-intended motivation, that I fail to notice and give your love freely to the elderly, those in need, or a traveler in a strange land.

This year, I want to live more like a Peruvian.

Returning

I wasn’t sure how being back in the States for Christmas would be, but it turned out to be really nice. It included a very enthusiastic welcoming committee at the airport, a day at Pickwick, seeing friends in Tupelo and Birmingham, and mostly lots of family in and around the Rice house for various birthday and Christmas gatherings. Although many days were pretty busy, it was really nice to see everyone and spend the holidays there. Plus, it was just about worth the ticket home to see Tupelo’s white Christmas.

The trek back south went smoothly (despite almost missing a flight due to a delay) until fog in Trujillo limited visibility enough to force our plane to wait on the runway in Chiclayo (a nearby city) for almost 3 hours while the flight crew tried to decide if we should try to land in Trujillo or go back to Lima. Much of this time was spent by listening to a large group – almost every passenger, in face – of very opinionated Peruvians contributing their two céntimos as to whether to stay in Chiclayo, try Trujillo, or return to Lima. Because apparently these decisions are made by committee. I could only laugh and go back to sleep. Eventually, we had an unsuccessful attempt at landing in Trujillo, went back to Lima, and eventually made it to Trujillo on a later flight. Upon finally landing, Trujillo never looked so beautiful.

Exhausted as we were (Heidi and Seth were on the same flight), I had to get out and move to cure myself of 30 hours of traveling. So I went for a run. And fell in an uncovered hole on the sidewalk accessing the water main. Long story short, I got a pretty good cut on my shin and spent part of my New Year’s Eve getting a few stitches in the office’s library (after a delicious supper at the Ueltscheys). Thankfully, I know some good doctors here, and Julton was kind enough to sew me up. And, although I was taking it easy, I still enjoyed ringing in 2011.

However, after having to say goodbye to family (which was more difficult than I'd expected) and traveling so long, that mishap was definitely not the first thing I wanted my first day back in Trujillo. Thankfully it really wasn’t bad, and I didn’t break anything, but I found myself asking “Why today?” I don’t know. But it did make me stop and think a little more. As much as I’d like to convince myself otherwise, I don’t have it all figured out just because I’ve already been here 5 months. I still can’t do this on my own strength. Nor should I. So my prayer for this new year is that I would not be concerned with doing a lot of important, significant things myself. While certainly taking seriously my work and responsibility to help here as much as possible, I hope my focus is more on Christ: sincerely growing in my relationship with Him, seeing Him be significant, and letting that be enough. Through that process, I trust that He will work in and through me. But I hope some arbitrary proof of my own work's importance is not my focus; rather, that I just seek Jesus. Because He can – and is – at work in bringing God’s kingdom.

So I guess I can deal with a few stitches for awhile. And it’s nice to enjoy a week that’s a little more relaxed without having to teach. It’s been helpful in getting settled again to reunite with the other interns, see some friends, and get back to work at the clinic. It's great to see everyone again. Below are a couple of pictures: the first, when Heidi and I took Linda (our new roommate) on an adventure to Las Delicias, a nearby beach where we saw some absolutely monstrous waves; the second, passing through the Plaza de Armas, still adorned with the trees and decorations from Christmas. Sometimes, you’ve just got to love Perú.

As I get a feel for things, I’ll try and synthesize some goals for my work at the clinic and the rest of my time here. So, if I get ambitious, be on the lookout for that soon. I wish you and yours a very blessed 2011. (Can you believe we’re there?!)